Skye Totally Explained

Everything about Skye totally explained

Skye or the Isle of Skye (Scottish Gaelic An t-Eilean Sgitheanach), is the largest and most northerly island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. It is possible the name may describe the shape of the island's peninsulas that radiate out from a mountainous centre dominated by the Cuillin hills.
The island has been occupied since the Mesolithic and has a colourful history including a time of Norse rule and a long period of domination by clans Leod and Donald. The events of the 19th century had a devastating impact on the human population, which today numbers around 9,200. In contrast to many other Scottish islands this represents a 4% increase from the census of 1991. The residents are augmented in the summer by large numbers of tourists and visitors. The main industries are tourism, agriculture, fishing and whisky-distilling. The largest settlement is Portree, which is known for its picturesque harbour. About 40% of the residents speak Gaelic.
Skye is part of the Highland Council local government area and is now linked to the mainland by a road bridge. The island is renowned for its spectacular scenery, vibrant culture and heritage, and its abundant wildlife including the Golden Eagle, Red Deer and Salmon.

Etymology

Skye's history includes the influence of Gaelic, Norse and English speaking peoples and the relationships between their names for the island are not straightforward. Eilean Sgitheanach, (sometimes Eilean Sgiathanach) is the modern Gaelic name and means "winged isle". Writing in 1549, Donald Munro, High Dean of the Isles wrote: "This Ile is callit Ellan Skiannach in Irish, that's to say in Inglish the wyngit Ile, be reason it has mony wyngis and pointis lyand furth fra it, throw the dividing of thir foirsaid Lochis".
   This was by no means the first written reference. It is possible the derivation is from skitis, an early Celtic word for "winged", which may describe the island's peninsulas that radiate out from a mountainous centre. and Scetis (on a map by Ptolemy). The Norse called it Skuyö, meaning either "Isle of Cloud"
   In April 2007 it was reported in the media that the island's official name had been changed by the Highland Council to Eilean a' Cheò, a poetic Gaelic name meaning "Isle of Mist" and corresponding to the Norse name. However, the Council clarified that this name referred only to one of its 22 wards in the then impending election, and that there were no plans to change signage or discontinue the English name. and W. H. Murray that "Skye is sixty miles long, but what might be its breadth is beyond the ingenuity of man to state". A full traverse of the Cuillin ridge may take 15-20 hours to complete. The Red Hills (Gaelic: Am Binnean Dearg) to the south are sometimes also known as the Red Cuillin. They are mainly composed of granite that has weathered into more rounded hills with many long screes slopes on their flanks. The highest point of these hills is Glamaig, one of only two Corbetts on Skye.
   Trotternish is underlain by basalt, which provides relatively rich soils and a variety of unusual rock features. The Kilt Rock is named for the tartan-like patterns in the 105 metre (350 ft) cliffs. The Quirang is a spectacular series of rock pinnacles on the eastern side of the main spine of the peninsula and further south is the rock pillar of the Old Man of Storr.
   Beyond Loch Snizort to the west of Trotternish is the Waternish peninsula, which ends in Ardmore Point's double rock arch. Duirinish is separated from Waternish by Loch Dunvegan. It is ringed by sea cliffs which reach 295 metres (967 ft) at Waterstein Head. Oolitic loam provides good arable land in the main strath. Lochs Bracadale and Harport lie between Duirinish and Minginish which includes the narrow valleys of Talisker and Glen Brittle and whose beaches are formed from black basaltic sands. Strathaird is a relatively small peninsula close to the Cuillin hills with several small crofting communities. The bedrock of Sleat is Torridonian sandstone which produces poor soils and boggy ground, although its lower elevations and relatively sheltered eastern shores produces a lush growth of hedgerows and crops.
   In common with most islands of the west coast of Scotland, rainfall is generally high at between 1500-2000 mm (60-80 in) per annum and the elevated Cuillin are wetter still. High winds are experienced everywhere, especially on the exposed coasts of Trotternish and Waternish.

Towns and villages

Portree in the north at the base of Trotternish is the largest settlement, and main service centre on the island, with a population of 1,960. Broadford is on the east side of the island and Dunvegan in the west. Kyleakin is opposite Kyle of Lochalsh on the mainland, the Skye Bridge now spanning the narrow strait between them. Uig is on the west of the Trotternish peninsula. Finds of bloodstone microliths on the foreshore at Orbost on the west coast of the island near Dunvegan also suggest Mesolithic occupation of the area. These tools probably originate from the nearby island of Rùm.
, an uninhabited peninsula to the south of the Cuillin, has a variety of archaeological sites dating from the Neolithic onwards. Loch na h'Airde, which is situated close to the ruins of a promontory fort, is linked to the sea by the artificial 'Viking canal' and there are remains of prehistoric settlement dating from the Neolithic, Bronze and Iron Ages nearby.

Norse Rule

The Norse held sway throughout the Hebrides from the 9th century until after the Treaty of Perth in 1266. However, little remains of their prescence in the written or archeological record on Skye. Viking heritage is nonetheless claimed by Clan MacLeod and Norse tradition is celebrated in the winter fire festival at Dunvegan, during which a replica Viking long boat is set alight.

The Clans

The most powerful clans on Skye in the post Norse period were Clan MacLeod, originally based in Trotternish, and Clan MacDonald of Sleat. The MacDonalds of South Uist were bitter rivals of the MacLeods, and the attempt by the former to murder church-goers at Trumpan in retaliation for a previous massacre on Eigg, resulted in the "Battle of the Spoiled Dyke" of 1578.After the failure of the Jacobite rebellion of 1745 Flora MacDonald became famous for rescuing Prince Charles Edward Stuart from the Hanoverian troops. Although she was born on South Uist her story is strongly associated with their escape via Skye and she's buried at Kilmuir in Trotternish. Written on her gravestone are Samuel Johnson's words that hers was was "A name that will be mentioned in history, and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour". In the wake of the rebellion the clan system was broken up and Skye became a series of landed estates.

Late 18th century

Skye was visited by Johnson and James Boswell during their 1773 Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland. Johnson observed:

I never was in any house of the islands, where I didn't find books in more languages than one, if I staid long enough to want them, except one from which the family was removed. Literature isn't neglected by the higher rank of the Hebrideans. It need not, I suppose, be mentioned, that in countries so little frequented as the islands, there are no houses where travellers are entertained for money. He that wanders about these wilds, either procures recommendations to those whose habitations lie near his way, or, when night and weariness come upon him, takes the chance of general hospitality. If he finds only a cottage he can expect little more than shelter ; for the cottagers have little more for themselves but if his good fortune brings him to the residence of a gentleman, he'll be glad of a storm to prolong his stay. There is, however, one inn by the sea-side at Sconsor, in Sky, where the post-office is kept.

Castles

Skye has a rich heritage of ancient monuments, especially castles. Dunvegan Castle has been the seat of Clan MacLeod since the thirteenth century. The castle contains the Fairy Flag and is reputed to have been inhabited by a single family for longer than any other house in Scotland.
The 18th century Armadale Castle, once home of Clan Donald of Sleat was abandoned as a residence in 1925 but now hosts the Clan Donald Centre. Nearby are the ruins of two more MacDonald strongholds, Knock Castle, and Dunscaith Castle, the legendary home of Queen Scáthach.

Clearances

From the latter part of the 18th century up to the mid-19th century, the inhabitants of Skye were devastated by famine and clearances. The "Battle of the Braes" involved a demonstration against a lack of access to land and the serving of eviction notices. The incident involved numerous crofters and about 50 police officers. This event was instrumental in the creation of the Napier Commission, which reported in 1884 on the situation in the Highlands. Disturbances continued until the passing of the 1886 Crofters' Act and on one occasion 400 marines were deployed on Skye to maintain order. An example of a clearance village can be seen at Boreraig, Strath Swordale. The clearances contributed to a severely depleted population, which measured less than nine thousand at the 1991 Census.

Government and politics

In terms of local government, Skye forms part of the Highland Council area (Comhairle na Gàidhealtachd) based in Inverness. From 1975 to 1996, Skye, along with the neighbouring mainland area of Lochalsh, constituted a local government district within the Highland administrative area. In 1996 the district was included into the Highland Unitary Authority, and formed one of the new council's area committees. Following the 2007 elections, Skye now forms a four-member ward called Eilean a' Cheò; it's currently represented by two Independent, one Scottish National Party, and one Liberal Democrat councillors. In addition, Skye forms part of the wider Ross Skye and Lochaber UK Parliament constituency, which elects one member to the House of Commons. The present Member of Parliament is Charles Kennedy MP for the Liberal Democrats, who is a former leader of the party and has represented the area since 1983.

Economy

The largest employer on the island and its environs is the public sector, which accounts for about a third of the total workforce, principally in administration, education and health. The second largest employer in the area is the distribution, hotels and restaurants sector, highlighting the importance of tourism. Key attractions include Dunvegan Castle, the Clan Donald Visitor centre, and The Aros Experience in Portree. There are about a dozen large landowners on Skye, the largest again being the public sector, the Department of Agriculture owning most of the northern part of the island. However, small firms dominate employment in the private sector. The Talisker Distillery, which produces a single malt whisky, is manufactured beside Loch Harport on the west coast of the island. Three other whiskies (Mac-na-Mara, Tè Bheag nan Eilean and Poit Dhubh) are produced by blender Pràban na Linne, based at Eilean Iarmain on Sleat. These are marketed using predominantly Gaelic-language labels. Crofting is still important, but although there are about 2,000 crofts on Skye only 100 or so are large enough to enable a crofter to earn a livelihood entirely from the land. Cod and Herring stocks have declined but commercial fishing remains important, especially fish farming of salmon and shellfish such as scampi. The unemployment rate in the area tends to be higher than that for the Highlands as a whole, and is seasonal in nature. The population is growing and in common with many other scenic rural areas in Scotland, significant increases are expected in the percentage of the population aged 45 to 64 years.

Transport

Skye is linked to the mainland by the Skye Bridge, while ferries sail from Armadale on the island to Mallaig, and from Kylerhea to Glenelg. Ferries also run from Uig to Tarbert on Harris and Lochmaddy on North Uist, and from Sconser to Raasay.
   Bus services run to Inverness and Glasgow, and there are local services on the island, mainly starting from Portree or Broadford. Train services run from Kyle of Lochalsh at the mainland end of the Skye Bridge to Inverness, as well as from Glasgow to Mallaig from where the ferry can be caught to Armadale. There is also a small aerodrome at Ashaig near Broadford, which is used exclusively by private aircraft.
   The A87 trunk road traverses the island from the Skye Bridge to Uig, linking most of the major settlements. Many of the island's roads have been widened in the past forty years, but there are still substantial sections of single track road. Students of the language travel from all over the world to attend Sabhal Mòr Ostaig, a Scottish Gaelic college based in Sleat.
   In addition to members of the Church of Scotland and a smaller number of Roman Catholics many residents of Skye belong to the Free Church of Scotland, known for its strict observance of the Sabbath. Shinty is a highly popular sport and Portree based Skye Camanachd won the Camanachd Cup in 1990.

Media and the arts

Skye has a strong folk music tradition, although in recent years dance and rock music have been growing in popularity on the island. Gaelic Rock Band Runrig started in Skye and former singer Donnie Munro still works on the island. Jethro Tull singer Ian Anderson owned an estate at Strathaird on Skye at one time. Several Tull songs are written about Skye, including Dun Ringil, Broadford Bazaar, and Acres Wild (which contains the lines "Come with me to the Winged Isle, / Northern father's western child" as a poetic reference to the island itself). The Isle of Skye Music Festival has been growing in recent years and has featured sets from The Fun Lovin' Criminals and Sparks. Electronic musician Mylo was born in Skye and frequently returns there to perform.
   The poet Sorley MacLean, a native of the Isle of Raasay which lies off the island's east coast, lived much of his life on Skye. The island has been immortalised in the traditional song The Skye Boat Song and is the notional setting for the novel To the Lighthouse by Virginia Woolf, although the Skye of the novel bears little relation to the real island. John Buchan descriptions of the island, as featured in his Richard Hannay novel Mr Standfast, are more true to life.
   Skye has been used as a location for a number of feature films. The Ashaig aerodrome was used for the opening scenes of the 1980 film Flash Gordon. Another 2007 film,, was shot almost entirely in various locations on the island (a small number of scenes being filmed on the mainland).
   The West Highland Free Press is published at Broadford. This weekly newspaper takes as its motto "An Tir, An Canan 'sna Daoine" - "The Land, the Language and the People" which reflects its radical, campaigning priorities. The Free Press was founded in 1972 and circulates in Skye, Wester Ross and the Outer Hebrides.

Wildlife

The Hebrides generally lack biodiversity in comparison to mainland Britain, but like most of the larger islands Skye has much to offer the naturalist. Samuel Johnston noted that:

At the tables where a stranger is received, neither plenty nor delicacy is wanting. A tract of land so thinly inhabited, must have much wild-fowl; and I scarcely remember to have seen a dinner without them. The moor-game is every where to be had. That the sea abounds with fish, needs not be told, for it supplies a great part of Europe. The Isle of Sky has stags and roebucks, but no hares. They sell very numerous droves of oxen yearly to England, and therefore can't be supposed to want beef at home. Sheep and goats are in great numbers, and they've the common domestic fowls." The Chough last bred on the island in 1900. Mountain Hare (apparently absent in the 18th century) and Rabbit are now abundant and predated on by Wild Cat and Pine Marten. The rich fresh water streams contain Brown Trout, Atlantic Salmon and Water Shrew. Offshore the Edible Crab and Oyster are also found, the latter especially in the Sound of Scalpay. There are also nationally important Horse Mussel and Brittlestar beds in the sea lochs. There is a fine example of Brachypodium-rich Ash woodland at Tokavaig in Sleat incorporating Silver Birch, Hazel, Bird Cherry, and Hawthorn.
The local Biodiversity Action Plan recommends land management measures to control the spread of Ragwort and Bracken and identifies four non-native, invasive species as threatening native biodiversity: Japanese Knotweed, Rhododendron, New Zealand Flatworm and Mink. It also identifies problems of over-grazing resulting in the impoverishment of moorland and upland habitats and a loss of native woodland, caused by the large numbers of Red Deer and sheep.

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